Vitamin C serum is one of the most celebrated skincare products for a reason: It works. Along with sunscreen and retinol, any dermatologist will be quick to tell you that vitamin C is essential to every basic skincare routine — regardless of skin type.
How Does Vitamin C Benefit the Skin?
To understand the advantages of using vitamin C on the skin, it’s first worth noting the different types of vitamin C out there. Depending on your skin type and concern, you may decide to go with one form of vitamin C over another.
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L-ascorbic acid happens to be the most beneficial and effective of all forms. However, if you’ve got acne-prone skin, Dr. Henry recommends using synthetic, stable, and water-soluble sodium ascorbyl phosphate. Some research shows sodium ascorbyl phosphate can be effective at treating breakouts when used in one-percent and five-percent concentrations and combined alongside acne-fighting ingredients like benzoyl peroxide, she tells us. If you’re looking for a vitamin C product that will deeply penetrate the skin, pick one with oil-soluble tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, a derivative of L-ascorbic acid.
When used correctly, vitamin C (in all its forms) is capable of treating a myriad of common skincare concerns:
- Slows and/or reverses signs of aging: Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals — which can lead to premature wrinkles and fine lines. “The antioxidant activity of vitamin C protects against UV-induced damage caused by free radicals, which will prevent accelerated aging and skin cancer,” Dr. Henry explains.
- Improves elasticity: As we age, skin loses its elasticity due to a decrease in collagen synthesis. “[Vitamin C] boosts firmness by regulating collagen production,” says Dr. Henry. The result? Plumper-looking skin.
- Treats dark spots and hyperpigmentation: According to Dr. Henry, vitamin C can have a brightening effect because it interferes with the enzymes used in melanin production.
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How Should You Add Vitamin C to Your Routine?
While both dermatologists say that its infamous “stale hot dog water” smell could be caused by the product’s combination of ingredients, it could also be due to it going bad. Once all checks out, you’re ready to introduce it to your routine:
- Use it as a serum: Generally, serums are the most common and popular vitamin C product category, but the ingredient is also found in moisturizers.
- Add it to your moisturizer: Dr. Talakoub likes mixing a few drops of vitamin C serum into moisturizer for an antioxidant boost. “I like the serum versions, which are bound in oil because they are the most stable forms of vitamin C,” she says.
What Are the Side Effects of Using Vitamin C?
Unless you have a specific allergy or extremely sensitive skin, vitamin C is safe for use on all skin types. However, there are some ingredients that shouldn’t be combined. According to Dr. Henry, “Retinoids, retinol, and AHA and BHA acids should not be mixed with vitamin C as their efficacy may be reduced as they function optimally in environments of very different pH levels.” Using vitamin C and retinol together can also lead to irritation. That’s why Dr. Henry recommends using vitamin C in the morning and reserving separate acids or retinol products for nighttime use. Still, keep in mind that you may see some vitamin C products that contain these ingredients at less potent levels.